Raita is one of the most useful condiments you can keep in the fridge. It cools and tempers spiced food, provides a creamy contrast to grilled meat, and works as a dip, sauce, or side dish depending on what you need from it. It takes five minutes to make, is built entirely from ingredients most people have on hand, and improves almost any meal that involves Indian-spiced food. It’s also almost infinitely variable – there are hundreds of regional versions across India, each adapted to local produce and taste preferences.
The Base
Most raitas start with plain full-fat yoghurt, about 2 cups for four people. Saveur’s Priya Krishna says to skip Greek yoghurt, which makes the raita too thick, though Lizzy Hoo’s cucumber raita for SBS uses it, so it comes down to the texture you like. Krishna’s family seasons every raita with equal parts salt and sugar and a pinch of chilli powder (paprika works too). Then comes the cumin: toast a spoonful of cumin seeds in a dry pan until they smell deeply fragrant, grind them and stir them through. Another of her family’s favourites is a tempering instead of the cumin: sizzle a couple of teaspoons of black mustard seeds and a handful of fresh curry leaves in a couple of tablespoons of hot oil or ghee for a few minutes, then pour it over the top.
Cucumber Raita
The most common version, and Lizzy Hoo’s is simple. For 250 g (1 cup) of yoghurt, halve a long cucumber, scrape out the seeds and grate it into a clean cloth, then squeeze out as much liquid as you can. Mix the yoghurt with a handful of chopped mint, 1 teaspoon of ground cumin and a pinch of salt, then stir in the cucumber. A little finely minced green chilli adds heat, and chopped fresh coriander adds freshness. Keep it in the fridge until you serve it. Cucumber raita goes with biryani and anything spiced with garam masala or chilli.
Boondi Raita
Boondi are tiny puffed balls made from chickpea flour, sold at Indian grocery stores. Priya Krishna calls them the most standard add-on for raita. Stir a handful through the seasoned yoghurt. They add little bursts of texture and a mild, nutty flavour, a bit like sprinkles on ice cream.
More Ways to Make It
Priya Krishna’s family adds all sorts of things to the seasoned base. Grated beetroot gives crunch and a little sweetness, and turns the raita pink. Boiled potato pieces soak up the spices and give it more body. Boiled butternut pumpkin is a bit unexpected, but it’s lightly sweet and holds its shape in the yoghurt. Pomegranate seeds add pops of colour and sweet-tart crunch. For any of them, a minced green chilli or a handful of chopped coriander lifts it further.
Getting the Base Right
A good raita starts with a good yoghurt. Use plain full cream yoghurt for a base that carries the spices, and whisk it smooth so there are no lumps. Plain yoghurt gives the creamy but slightly loose texture you’re after. If you want it thinner, to use as a dressing, loosen it with a little milk or water. Season in stages, tasting as you go, because the salt, sugar and cumin need to be balanced against the tartness of the yoghurt rather than dumped in at once.
Troubleshooting
It’s too thin or too thick. Raita is easy to correct. Too thick, loosen it with a splash more water or milk. Too thin, stir through a spoon of thick yoghurt to bring back the body. Watery add-ins like cucumber will loosen it further as it sits, so account for that.
It’s too sour. A very tart yoghurt can overwhelm the other flavours. A small pinch of sugar settles the sharpness without making the raita sweet, and a little extra salt rounds it out.
It splits or weeps. Yoghurt releases water as it stands, especially once cucumber is stirred in. This is normal. Drain off any pooled liquid and stir before serving, and add watery vegetables close to serving rather than hours ahead.
Serving and Storage
Raita is meant to be eaten cold, straight from the fridge, where its job is to cool and balance a spiced meal. Serve it alongside biryani, curries, grilled meats, or spiced flatbreads, or set it out as a dip. Krishna also uses it as a marinade for meat, and spreads it thinly on sandwiches in place of mayonnaise. Keep it in the fridge until you serve it, and add watery vegetables like cucumber close to serving, since they thin it as they sit.
Sources
The base and add-ins on this page are adapted from Priya Krishna’s raita guide for Saveur, and the cucumber raita from Lizzy Hoo’s cucumber raita at SBS Food.
